So the structures are yurts (or rather upscale versions of true yurts, which are what nomadic peoples of Central Asia/Mongolia live in) and the missus and I spent a few days in one out in the expanse of Big Sur, at a place called Treebones Resort. These yurts are sturdy, with small skydomes to see the stars and moon at night and wake up to a real, unobstructed dawn, as well as sinks, a wood/gas combo fireplace, and otherwise ascetic but well provisioned furnishings.
To give you an idea of how open this part of California is, imagine a place that is nearly 100 miles in length (following the coast) and as much as 30 miles inland, with fewer than 1000 permanent residents. If it wasn’t for Route 1, it would probably still be largely impossible to traverse, as it faces a jagged set of cliffs and microclimates going all the way into the Saint Lucia mountains.
It was a famous hangout last century for writers like Jack Kerouac, Hunter S. Thompson, and Henry Miller (the latter of which even has a bookstore/museum right off Route 1, but was closed both times we drove by it).
I had first read about Treebones in the FT, and later the Missus decided this would be a great idea for our eighth anniversary. She was right (she usually is), as its perfect for disconnecting. Phone service is patchy for most carriers (there is a landline in the lodge, but we didn’t use it), and the whole point is to be away from everything anyway. This place is not Blackberry or iPhone friendly, which makes it me-friendly by default.
This forces you to do things like hike the various trails and look at the local flora and fauna; there are a multitude of birds (including hearing a raptor one morning), hares, and at least one lynx/bobcat.
I got to really put my Vibrams to task, and they get more comfortable with each use. They force you to be aware of your footfalls and your posture. The trails on the resort are limited in length, but nonetheless give you some variety of terrain and elevation. Since the resort abuts two parks (one state, one national) it isn’t as if you lack options. As a matter of fact, the area is teeming with parks and preserves; Los Padres, Limekiln, Pfeiffer/Burns, Fort Hunter Liggett, Point Lobos, Molera, and the Point Sur Naval Lighthouse.
It is easy to sit in your yurt and read (which we both did), walk the grounds and take trips to the central lodge for food, which includes an odd mix of rustic fare (their pork loin is pretty damn amazing, and they also have a decent lamb tagine) as well as a small sushi bar. They grow most of the produce on the resort grounds themselves, which truth be told, seems to make a difference. They also have something called the Nest, which is a structure that sits off to one side of the resort grounds and faces the ocean.
It pretty much makes it impossible to not relax and feel like the world is ok. That is frankly, worth the money spent.
Also, they have cool permanent residents like the really friendly Sammy the pitbull/dachshund mix (see above, who K and I met before a morning walkabout).
About the only downside to this whole place was the one young, inept hipster on staff that just did not seem to have it together – not when we checked in, not when we checked out, not during our first evening meal. Everyone else on staff…totally cool, especially the manager and the sous chef.
Just the drive alone is relaxing. Route 1 can unnerve some folks, as there are parts where the high winds and short distance to a gravity-assisted demise off the cliffside can cause some slight increase in bloodflow to the panic gland. Otherwise, it is a really idyllic roadtrip, and certainly an idyllic destination.
If you actually bother to leave the resort (we did not) you are in very close driving distance to the Esalen Institute , the aforementioned Henry Miller library, several galleries and Catholic retreat grounds. And don’t forget, just another 30 or so miles south is San Simeon and Hearst Castle.